Maupiti Madness!!!

9 August 2014

Now I know this is a bit late, but after reading this and the next blog you may well understand. We had a great if not perfect sail from Bora Bora under genakker (asymmetrical spinnaker) arriving through a calm pass and anchored off the town dock.

If only all crossings were like this!!

Maupiti is tiny - almost the last island in French Polynesia with only two thousand residents.  We decided to head ashore for a walk around and get our bearings, along with ascertaining where and what supplies we can count on…..not a lot.

Pictures just don't do it justice

Sunday saw us take the pushies ashore, after a bit of maintenance, for a cycle around the island which was fantastic. A large hill supporting a pamplemouse farm encouraged us for supplies and a stop off at the best beach on the island enabled me to obtain some tools from a local to make an adjustment to my pushie before the front wheel fell off. Continuing our journey we found some tuna brochettes for sale that were being cooked on a bbq in someones driveway, we kept bumping into her around the island for our remaining time.

A stop at a local artisans house proved interesting and he informed us of great celebrations to occur this week, the Hokulea is arriving.

We headed out to the pass to welcome in the Hokulea and another two traditional canoes.  The island dignitries were there too, complete with band attending on their barge. Two of these boats have sailed from Hawaii - one without a motor as has been done in years gone by, though the local inter island ferry did have to tow them all through the pass.

A reception, complete with band dancing and garland issuing, was held on dock then all proceeded to the local Marae for the formal rituals. Now Maupiti is known as the island of the 9 chiefs, due to 9 chiefs of the Polynesian islands coming from here.

One of the rituals is for each boat to place a stone, carried from Hawaii, on the Marae. I can only imagine one was taken from Maupiti or all ballast from the canoes will soon be depleted.

Are you readyyy?

The following day we were awoken by the local police, we had to move our boat as it was going to be in the way of the fishing…ehh? Boat moved and soon afterwards we saw a line of local boats gathering just in front of us. Down with the dinghy, grab some palm fronds, and lets join in. Now this fishing has only been done 4 times in the last 40 years so we feel very privileged. Basically every floating craft on the island is organised in the lagoon; half go one way round the island the other half the other way. As the boats move in a line a rock, attached to your wrist, is thrown into the water to herd the fish towards the corral.

Start boat with the white flag..

the big fella (Ali Baba he was later named) sets the pace..

...even the girls join in!

This is mad stuff! Women children and Europeans all join in and I can’t believe no one has broken their legs. The atmosphere builds as all boats are pushed back and lined up….and we’re off! The big fella in the lead boat lets go of his rock and everyone starts. The organisers boat keeps a tab on the speed, and the rocks keep flying, and pulled back out of the water.

Mum & Dad..

Not easy to control the crowd...

....everyone gets excited near the end



and we're all having a great time!

It is mayhem, and everyone is having a great time. It takes just over an hour to reach the corral where the boats stop and everyone jumps into the water to grab hold of the traditional net, made out of coconut fronds, to keep the fish at bay. Marion takes the dinghy as I drop my shirt and glasses and leap from the dinghy onto another boat then into the 2 foot deep water.

Marion reckons this is the biggest Hokey Pokey she has ever seen!

....and the party begins!

Its like a washing machine here, people going everywhere. Finally the net is complete and the corral gets smaller. Marion joins in the crowd, even though she forgot her swimmers. The fish are desperately trying to get out and everyone is laughing, the children hold up puffer fish they managed to catch. The net is now small and quiet descends on the crowd as the mayor says prayers for the catch. The nets are dragged onto the beach but the catch is small. The children are delighted and all are satisfied that the traditional ways are not lost.

We head back to the boat to pack a picnic as the music starts at various places on the water; it is clear there will be no more work today. Finishing our picnic we take a walk along the beach and are encouraged into a residence, they are still partying. A few cold beers were handed out so I take a run to the boat and grab a bottle of rum. Now the hostess here is highly impressed and as a token of gratitude places a traditional necklace around Marion’s neck, an amazing piece of art!

Gladys and Bobo, great hosts, and comfort for Ali Baba

The remainder of our time in Maupiti was spent checking weather, snorkelling coral gardens, and with Manta rays at their cleaning station, and trying to organise provisions for the crossing. Now because the Hokulea was in there appears to be nothing in the shops and we take to asking residents if we can buy some fruit off them. ‘No!’ we were told and walked off only to have them run after us saying they won’t sell them to us but will give them to us. Ample amounts of bananas, pamplemouse, limes and golden apples were collected and stored on the boat, how nice are these people?

the coral gardens..

..with a lot of vibrant clams



...and Mark's favourite fish, The Bandit

We finally get a weather window and head out of the pass, just in time. We get to the pass and with the outgoing current swirling at the 80m wide pass with 3m breaking waves either side we are glad we are not leaving it any longer. In adverse weather the pass is unnavigable and a phone number must be called prior to entering or leaving.



Zenna waiting for a weather window

Maupiti…absolute madness!