Vava’u - Kingdom of Tonga

At 0600 hours in the morning here I sit in our cockpit waiting for the sun to rise on the pale pink clouds while listening to the wildlife wakening at our first anchorage within the island group. It has been a week since we arrived and we feel good to be out of the town anchorage and exploring.

Unspeakably unbelievable! Don’t really know how to describe it. You know we have mentioned before we’ve had dolphins zipping jumping and twisting, rays swirling and gliding, sharks hunting and gouging…..and turtles meandering NOW we are into whales and it just keeps getting better!

Our 6 day passage from Suwarrow was a mixed bag from delightful calm breezes and becalmed weather to sporadic showers and gusty robust winds coming from all different angles. Now this stretch of the Pacific is reknowned for treacherous weather and has reduced many an ocean hardened sailor to land so we feel we had been dealt a good hand overall. Stories are still coming in of battered boats and crew with the last one losing its mast and sending out a MAY DAY call.

We rounded the north of Vava’u at 0300 hours so reduced sail and kept out to sea waiting for the sun to rise. Marion grabbed some sleep while I kept a watch and as soon as she came up motor came on and in we headed. Dramatic, it felt like Sydney heads, no no…the Spanish rias. In any case, it was dramatic; green vegetative cliffs rising out from the sea, a huge sheltered bay with inhospitable islands rising vertical from the navy blue depths, and as the morning wore on sail boats gliding noiselessly along.

We saw some boats down sail and soon realised they were whale watching. Now we don’t believe in chasing creatures, they will come if they so choose. And our welcome committee was superb. It wasn’t long before we spotted a couple of whales heading our way, the closest one not more than 50m away. We could hear the bursting exhale of the whales with the accompanying mist as we spotted their surfacing barnacled backs and were treated to the spectacle of their raised ‘fluke’ (tail) as they descended to the depths once again. No photos, we were glad to have this solitary experience to ourselves and the whales.

We took a mooring once we got well inside the protected anchorage, packed the boat up, and had the obligatory Bloody Mary breakfast complete with herbed pork sausages, fantastic.

Mmmmm, Bloody Mary breky, with sausages!

Our next few days were spent checking in, cleaning the boat, and scouting out the town while catching up with new and old friends. Now many had said we must do the whale watching……really not our thing going on these touristy outings but we were told we would not be disappointed and that it is illegal to do it without a tourist operator.

What a day……. These no zoom photos of the calf playing with us while mother and escort waited below will give you an idea.

Ticklin the tummy eh?

Our second week was spent taking a charter (where we did no work and pretended to be on holidays) exploring some of the outlying islands; walking on beaches, catching up with friends new and old, snorkelling coral gardens and listening to the fishing tournament reports. The coral gardens had some of the most vibrant coloured and different types coral we have ever seen so we had to swim over the reef twice to snorkel it.

Islands dotted everywhere (3 here) unexplored beaches on all.

Extremely poisonous sea snake spotted alongside Zenna just before our snorkel!

We headed back into town on Saturday, a lovely sail, to regroup and get supplies and were treated to the tournament weigh in. A great laugh and while we were there saw a ‘record’ fish weigh in. Amazing how big these things are in real life!

Lady in the pink landed this 232kg monster!

We kept listening to the tournament on the Monday and Tuesday to the 2 hourly reports; “This is Reel Addiction, we have 2-2-0 on Blue Marlin, Denise in the chair, in the area Tonga Motor Parts”. This meant in the last period of 2 hours they had 2 strikes, 2 hook ups, but 0 landed of Blue Marlin with Denise currently trying to pull one of the hook ups into land and tag & release a Blue Marlin. It all became quite addictive to the point I went to a weigh in and asked around to get on a boat, I was ready to pay big money for this, it sounded great, but no takers. Next time, eh.

Tonga has a law on Sunday where NO commercial activity is to take place….we kind of like this law, even working on your boat is frowned upon. But people must eat and while the locals prepare all their feasting for Sunday on Saturday for others it is not so easy. So off to a Tongan Feast we went for a suckling pig and all the traditional Tongan fare ‘your stomach can take’.

Monday we prepared for another weeks stay so done the provisioning and while catching up on e-mails had word requiring us in Fiji……another weeks stay now cancelled and preparations for departure to Fiji commenced.

Our preparations to depart included buying some new lures after being spurred on by the fishing tournament, and we were not disappointed. Not long after clearing out, motoring through the passage and setting sail the lures went out. An hour later we had a strike, ‘Ohhh, did you see that’ I called to Marion as I ran to the back of the boat. We had a strike, and as I was at the back of the boat I could see the green torpedo stealthily eyeing off my lure. ‘Look look Marion, can you see it’, yeah yeah came the reply. I grabbed hold of the line and started jiggling it like a crazed Kuna. It was at this point I wondered if I really wanted a marlin on the end of my line after seeing the weigh in. Too late, we got a hook up! Ohh sh_t! This fish thrashed once and took off, in the opposite direction to us! The reel was whistling while the line was burning as it ran out, ‘help help I cried out to Marion’, Marion pulled in the other line, we definitely didn’t need two hook ups! I grabbed the reel and tightened the drag careful not to touch the line. Just a little was all it took and the Blue Marlin was up, half out the water and heading left. Both Marion and I stopped what were doing in amazement of this beast and watched it plough through the water until it was out to the side of the boat about 100m away. Wow, what a spectacle! It disappeared, and at this point I noticed my line was still heading out the back of the boat, it was not taut while he was doing this. Ohhh no, he’s off again the line, though not taut is zipping through the water to our right…….. and he’s out of the water again this time right up on his tail, look at it thrash, he’s walking on water and out the right hand side of the boat. I started to reel in, I was not really sure why or what I was going to do with this 80 kg (est) fish when I got it to the boat. But I needn’t have worried, it spat it out and was free again. I really didn’t want to lose a new lure!

Marion and I just stood looking at each other in amazement, ‘did you see that, did you see that’.i yelled, Marion was as spell bound as I and saw all that happened except for the last few seconds as she dived for the camera. Truly amazing! In our excitement I got on the radio and called in, " this is Zenna, Zenna, Zenna, 1-1-0, on Blue Marlin, Mark on the back deck, on our way to Fiji". One of the fishing boats, none of which had seen a Marlin all day, came back on the radio and said, "I bet you're glad he came off, not sure what you would have done with it!".

He was right!

Suwarrow (Part 2) - Some you win.....

Still a long way to go

Suwarrow atoll really is the remotest place we have visited.  It took us 5 days to get here and our next stop Tonga is 6 days away.  The Cook Islands which it belongs to spreads over 2 million sq km with only a scattering of 15 small islands and atolls.  This atoll is uninhabited except for 6 months of the year when a Ranger – Harry and his wife Vaine – come to stay to do all the immigration formalities for cruisers on their way from Panama to New Zealand/Australia.

Harry doing paperwork in his shelter

It’s pretty inhospitable but devastatingly beautiful.  It is also graced with some pretty temperamental weather.  The passage from French Polynesia to islands further west is renowned for being difficult.  A fact not lost on us as we languished in FP for nearly 15 months.  I took to monitoring some in depth weather.  Starting with El Nino which was advancing each month in likelihood of developing, then taking into account the SPCZ (South Pacific Convergence Zone) which is a vicious convergence front that whips up squalls of up to 70 knots and finally the MJO the Madden Julian Oscillation which circulates around the globe at the equator on a 30-60 day basis and effectively exaggerates any weather it comes in touch with.

Needless to say that in spite of all this monitoring and careful planning as to when to leave, it was the SPCZ and the MJO which got us.  Hey ho.  But here we are thanking our lucky stars.  After all what were the chances of finding a spare head sail in Suwarrow!

What’s more it’s slightly too small which means we can doctor it to use on Zenna.  Too big and we wouldn’t have been able to get it on the furler making it very impractical to use.  So now we have to start making all the necessary adjustments.  The side of the sail that goes up the furler is 23 meters.  Thanks to another cruiser who’s pointed out that if we unpick one of the seams along this side we will be able to remove the old cord and re-stitch the one from Zenna in.  We have a tool on board called a quick stitch – a total misnomer.  But it’s what we used to re-stitch the seam. 

How long did you say this seam was?

Yet another use for the good ole coconut tree

It took about 2 days to unpick and re-stitch, including taking the sail to shore as there wasn’t space on the boat to tension the seam to drag out the old chord and drag in the new.  All accomplished but we still held our breath – would it go up the track.  It does but it’s too short to reach the top and we need a swuaged metal pennant to make up the difference.  Enter the funny metal strap that’s sat in the cockpit locker for the past 5 years.   

Not such a relaxing swim!

Now the major works are out the way, we can have some fun which includes a visit to the manta cleaning station where an unusual black ray pirouettes around his partner.  He even allowed Mark to shadow his movements.  Then to some stunning coral along the northern reef and a brief swim past the stricken yacht to see the damage from underwater.  Relatively little to see, you get more of an insight looking into the hatches of the yacht and seeing the coral poking up through the floor. 

You do this with the blunt side of the machete!

 

Fry 'em up Vaine

I also get a cooking lesson from Vaine who shows me how they make pancakes out of ‘oto’ which is the pulp you get instead of coconut water when a coconut starts to sprout.  They are delicious and are now a staple for our crossings as they can be made in advance. 

We are only allowed 14 days here and we know we have to leave soon, so Mark gets in some fishing.  Rainbow runners seem to just jump into the dinghy.  Another barbeque is planned and he provides the protein whilst another boat shows up with a metre long pumpkin which is delicious on the bbq.  We don’t hang around long tho – we’ve defrosted our last Cote de boeuf from Tahiti and head back to the boat with some pumpkin.

   

 

With oto pancakes in the fridge we prepare to head off rather tentatively with our new headsail.  It’s a challenging sail yet again.  The only good thing that can be said about passage making is that you lose weight.  Not surprising really as you spend 24 hours a day being thrown around and constantly have to keep your balance – even as you sleep.  Not to mention feeling queasy so eating loses its appeal.  Surely there’s a market to be tapped?  So now I’m enjoying jettisoning the Tahiti pounds.  Unfortunately the body that appears is not the one I left behind 20 years ago when I was last this weight.  Sails in Suwarrow - yes. A 40 year olds body - no! 

Back on the road with a new sail, works a dream!

Suwarrow (Part 1) Sorrow ..... Lat 13 15 S Long 163 07 W

10 August 2014

So here we sit in Suwarrow after arriving a week ago finally being able to catch up on some rest. We look out all around us and coupled with a full moon high tide covering the otherwise exposed reef all we can see for miles is; endless ocean, the ‘Ranger’ motu, and a yacht holed on a submerged reef. There is plenty of hardship and sorrow on this extreme remote atoll.

Our passage from Maupiti was strategic as we knew there was a front just to the south of our intended track which we wanted to avoid. It wasn’t to be! One night we found that we had sailed straight into the front, luckily a stationary front where the wind died and rain persisted. After a debate about our use of fuel we decided to motor and were lucky enough to escape the front after 4 hours and sail again. Now the sailing was brilliant. Our new thought was to sail the boat and keep the speed up closer to the wave speed enabling a smoother and quicker crossing.  And it worked.

Relatively calm, really.

Marion was brought to tears after this mouthful as she spilled it......she had been waiting and trying to have porridge for 2 hours. (I put her bowl inside a mixing bowl immediately and the tears stopped)

Day 1

The last night into Suwarrow saw steady winds and we let out more sail, hence more speed and a smoother ride. 1 reef in the main and 2/3 of the genoa out…we were flying! However, as we reached Suwarrow we were again blanketed in a grey drizzle cloud formation of wind speeds no greater than 20 knots. During our preparations for entering the pass into the atoll our comfortable passage was over; we turned our backs for a minute and through the drizzling rain not more than 50m away we saw, and got hit by, a 35 knot squall. I came up from below to find Marion battling the helm, I tried to pull in the genoa but the boat gybed uncontrollably forcing the sails to back and leave us hove to. The wind continued and with the sails flapping it was only a matter of time before they were shredded. The engine went on and we finally came out of the hove to position only to have the boat round up into the wind. ‘Drop the main, drop the main’ I yelled to be heard above the screeching wind howling in the rigging. The genoa was beginning to shred I heard back. The main came down and Marion went on the helm again as I furled what was left of the genoa. We motored around in the squall for an hour licking our wounds and making sure everything was as safe as could be. Currents were pushing us towards the reef and the engine growled to keep us off. We must head for the pass and try and reach the safety of the atoll, so we thought!

Quite a different outlook in a squall, don't be fooled by the smooth looking water, its not!

The pass, with a 3 knot outgoing current, became easier than we anticipated and we enjoyed being out of the lumpy seas. We had communication with the other 5 yachts in the anchorage, who confirmed the accuracy of the charts, and showed us a good place to anchor.

Wow, what a morning after 5 days at sea we were exhausted. So the obligatory Bloody Mary breakfast was had which put us down for some much needed catch up sleep. We awoke to a rather bleak but calm anchorage and after checking the anchor, amongst coral heads, we settled in for a movie and more catch up sleep.

Day 2

0030 hours, the wind picked up quickly to 35 knots creating 1m waves, felt like 2m with the bounce, in the anchorage shortly afterwards. A black ink night with the sound of crashing waves soon brought all boats to the realisation we were to be in for an unexpected night. After an hour or so sleep we were up and the VHF radio went on. Yachts were checking in with each other, cabin lights were coming on, and a careful watch was had to ensure everyone was safe. No, wait, listen to the radio……….a yacht has broken its anchor chain and is now motoring around the anchorage. Requests are put out for everyone to put on their nav lights so the motoring boat can see where we all are. No, he narrowly missed hitting one on the stern turning just in time. Marion is up now, there will be no rest tonight! Another near miss, and he is heading for Zenna but veers off in time. The wind continues, the waves are pounding, our anchor chain has wrapped around a coral head and our bow is snatching. I crawl along the deck and rig another snubber line to extend our chain another 10 metres, but some damage has been done to our bow roller. The black of night, the sting of the rain, the crashing waves…when is this all going to end. Hours seem to pass by but, oh no, I can’t believe it! The motoring yacht has hit a submerged reef and is calling for assistance, the boat is breaking up! It’s too dangerous and another cruiser offers sound advice for them to stay with the boat, it can’t sink if it is on the reef. We must wait for the storm to subside before attempting a rescue operation.

0800 hours, the wind has reduced its ferocity though the driving rain and pounding waves continue. We can see the stricken yacht on the reef exposed broadside to the weather with the waves crashing onto their deck. They are communicating on their handheld VHF now, water is a few feet deep in the yacht and their batteries are underwater rendering all boat electrics useless. The reef has put several holes in the hull and the rudder has been pushed through the bottom. The rescue strategy is forming but it is still too dangerous for an attempt.

Some hours go by but eventually all personnel are safely removed from the stricken yacht. The rain continues, the wind subsides a bit more, and the waves reduce in strength. Marion and I clean up what we can on Zenna, check the anchor chain again, and try to catch up on some sleep.

It didn't look this clear and calm at the time!

Day 3

The weather has calmed enough now for us to go ashore and ‘clear in’ with Harry, the Ranger who performs immigration and customs duties amongst others. The anchorage is buzzing and the cruisers gather to assist in salvaging what we can from the stricken yachts; personal belongings first, environmental damages, then anything of value is ferried off by dinghies to shore. The mood is sombre, and we all think about how devastating the situation is. It looks like Harry is having guests stay for a while.

A yacht arrives in the anchorage, and learning of the events and having caught a couple of tuna on the way through the pass organises a ‘pot luck’ on shore that evening. A brilliant event with plenty of food and beverage and we manage to meet all the other cruisers, giving our condolences and assistance to the stricken yacht crew.

Day 4

We spent a lot of yesterday assisting the marooned yacht but it is now time to assess our damage. The genoa is unfurled and we stare in disbelief, the sail has lasted so long and we are disappointed to see it in such condition. We are really unsure of our options here. The main is raised and we soon realise we can patch/repair what damage there is. A departing yachts calls out ‘impressive sails’ as they raise their anchor, we all laugh! We need to think….but in the meantime we lower the dinghy and assist in removing more salt water laden gear from the stricken yacht; cushions, electrical items, cups, cutlery, momentos gathered during their journey. Some will be saved, most will be ruined, all are being dried out on shore.

That afternoon we decide to walk around the motu, we need to get away from the boats.

Very impressive sail!

So tranquil..

Day 5

We try to get back to a ‘normal’ life, most of the yachts have left the anchorage to continue their crossing. The fridge is defrosted and options for the genoa discussed. During all this we are lucky enough to have 2 whales swim and play around the yachts, truly magnificent that they have entered the lagoon and come to us. Now we have done the dolphins, rays, turtles, sharks and while they are all special we are not use to whales, fantastic!

We visit ashore and another yacht, the type of which we nearly purchased. There is talk of people salvaging items from the stricken yacht for their own use and suggestions are made that we are to be offered their genoa in payment for our assistance…..this turns out to be true and I successfully lead the effort to place an anchor off the bow of the stricken yacht to ensure it doesn’t drag further onto the reef.

Marion and I commence repairs to the main sail.

During the anchor operation in the afternoon Leo and I took turns to position the anchor while watching a manta ray swim over for a look, majestic creatures they are. One dive to position the anchor resulted in my leg getting grazed on a coral head attracting about 6 black tip reef sharks. Now it was getting close to 1700hrs and Leo noticed the sharks starting to dart about. We called over Harry who was standing by with his aluminium dinghy and said we are not comfortable and explained why. Harry said, yea, its probably best, which we took immediately to mean ‘get the hell out of the water’. Leo and I did not need much encouragement.

As I leave the stricken yacht I use the opportunity to obtain their genoa and get it aboard Zenna. But before heading back to Zenna I notice a dinghy adrift in the anchorage. Everyone else was at the stricken yacht so off we went in chase. The dinghy drifted behind Zenna and by the time I caught up with it so had everyone else to find Marion stripped down to her bra and knickers in the dinghy trying to start it. No one really knew what to do but kept their distance and offered advice in how to start it. I thought it was quite funny, as did everyone else, but fair play to Marion stripping off and swimming through shark infested waters to rescue someone elses dinghy. Unfortunately we have no photos of this event! (Or rather fortunately – marion note)

Day 6

We try to get back to a ‘normal’ life, undoing a coral wrap sees my cut bleeding finger attracting no less than 3 black tip reef sharks, but the wrap must be undone. More balls were placed on the anchor chain reducing further wraps.

A galley door is repaired after being ripped from its hinges as it swung open in the high tide slap as I walked through the boat last night and we decide that a review of the weather must continue as we have not done so for a week, so a catch up session is had.

Genoa, well we have measured and re-measured and are sure it will fit, but….. Down comes the old, and up with the new but it won’t go. A closer inspection reveals that the bolt rope that has to be fed up the track is bigger than what we have! Options are weighed and we decide we have to take the bolt rope out of the old genoa and restitch it into the new genoa. We pull apart the old, make a few measurements, and are sure our plan will work though it may take some time to do. Not a job for today.

Marion continues cleaning the boat and I assist the stricken boat to get the remaining rigging items off the boat.

My hair is cut, thankyou Marion, and the weekend is here, and it has been a huge week, we must rest……..so here we sit in Suwarrow….

Interesting Neighbours French Polynesia

'


'Rancho Relaxo of the Seas'



Crazy French cat!

You see some sights alongside some days.  One of my favourites was Rancho Relaxo.  It looked as if the boat was abandoned as it sat beside us for weeks with no sign of the owner.  Then one day a family came and took it out - we were amazed it even had an engine.    At the other end of the scale, we spotted a strange craft moored near us one morning.  Turns out it’s a crazy Frenchman doing the first cabinless circumnavigation.  He sleeps on the netting of the catamaran and get’s up amazing speeds. 

Black Pearl - Roger up the mast and Mark on the bow

Then there is Roger and Black Pearl.  Roger is from the UK and saw a boat in Tahiti on ebay which he subsequently bought for £4,000.  It needed a bit of tidying up, but he’s been on it for several months and is cruising the Tahitian Islands with the best of us.  He reckons it beats 2 weeks in the BVIs which cost him £5,000 on his last charter.  And he may just be able to sell her when he returns to the UK at the end of his 6 months. 

Tahitian

Lays and headdresses are a staple of the islands.  We were here for 4 months before we were given one and then they came thick and fast.  People wear them to parties, for special events any excuse it seems.   We think they are all homemade and quite gorgeous.  The trick is to avoid the heavily scented ones which would put a hay fever suffer in casualty. 

Tahitian

Not Tahitian - nice try Mark

On the island of Huahine we met a lovely chap Paul.  Deaf and dumb but full of life and generous to a fault.  We were anchored out the front of his place for a week or so and he would come by almost every day with fruit or fish or something he’d made to eat.  He also had lots of toys including kayaks which he loaned us.  We’d love to have one on board but they take up too much room on the bow.  

Up

Up

Down a ravine

He also wanted to take us hiking.  This was said very tongue in cheek as he thought we were too old and unfit to do much.  So we opted for a short walk...  He didn’t mention it was vertical and there was no path – for the most part we were scrambling over the weed canopy that had grown over the shrubs and grass land.  It was doable but occasionally you would stumble into a ravine and virtually disappear.  I was relieved at one point to see the sole of an old trainer – at least we were not the only ones to pass this way.  Turned out it was actually one of the soles of Mark’s shoes – he lost both soles whilst we were up there. 

Quite a relief to get to the bottom where Paul ripped open 5 green coconuts with his hands so we could get some coconut water to drink.  Mark has trouble opening the dry ones with his machete let alone his hands! 

6 piglets, chickens and veggies into the underground oven

Coconunt milk doesn't get any fresher - about 60 to make this

There was a church festival on the main island nearby and we were curious to know what was going on.  So curious we got our selves invited for lunch the following day.  It was quite an operation.  The marquee they had constructed had to be decked out with flowers and palms, the in-ground oven had to be prepared, coconut milk pressed from the nuts, bowls had to be woven and music practiced.  Everyone seemed to have a job.   

Nice hat mate

We arrived for lunch with everyone done up in their Sunday best.  It was a bit like a wedding and we were the guests they didn’t know where to seat. 

We ended up with the 3 single old fellows who didn’t speak much French.  They started by pouring coconut milk onto their plates and we followed suit, then they offered a raw fish dish – not uncommon here.  However, it turned out to be fafalou which is fish fermented with rotten fish and the coconut milk was fermented too.  Mark was gagging and narrowly avoided a dash for the nearest exit.  After that we were a little more cautious about what they were handing us – the rest was delicious and mostly cooked. 



Washing up for 120 diners

With so many tourists in the Society Islands, the sea life is being affected.  We really don’t like the fact that lots of tourist boats feed the fish which makes them behave very differently when people are around.  However, it is quite funny that the rays are all over you and will almost try to nibble your feet when you get out of the dinghy.  On a more positive note, we also provided a scratching stick for a local turtle in wonderful Oponuhu Bay.  He came by every evening and rubbed his neck on our chain in the perfect blue water. No doubt someone else’s chain is providing the service now.