The 3 day Fiji Crossing – ‘Here at last’

A 3 day crossing, perhaps 4??

Day 1 – Blue Marlin

Our preparations to depart included buying some new lures after being spurred on by the fishing tournament in Tonga, and we were not disappointed. Not long after motoring through the passage and setting sail the lures went out. An hour later we had a strike, ‘Ohhh, did you see that’ I called to Marion as I ran to the back of the boat.  I was at the back of the boat and could see a green torpedo stealthily eyeing off my lure. ‘Look look Marion, can you see it’, yeah yeah came the reply. I grabbed hold of the line and started jiggling it like a crazed Kuna. It was at this point I wondered if I really wanted a marlin on the end of my line after seeing the fishing tournament weigh ins.

Too late, we got a hook up! Ohh sh_t! This fish thrashed once and took off, in the opposite direction to us! The reel was whistling while the line was burning as it ran out, ‘help help I cried out to Marion’, Marion pulled in the other line, we definitely didn’t need two hook ups! I grabbed the reel and tightened the drag careful not to touch the line. Just a little was all it took and the Blue Marlin was up, half out the water and heading left. Both Marion and I stopped what we were doing in amazement of this beast and watched it rise on to its tail and plough through the water until it was out to the side of the boat about 100m away.

Wow, what a spectacle! Then it disappeared, and at this point I noticed my line was still heading out the back of the boat, it was not taut while he was doing all this. Ohhh no, he’s off again, the line, though not taut is zipping through the water to our right……..he’s moving like the Roadrunner then he’s out of the water again this time right up on his tail, look at it thrash, he’s walking on water and out the right hand side of the boat. I started to reel in, I was not really sure why or what I was going to do with this 80 kg (est) fish when I got it to the boat. But I needn’t have worried, it spat out the lure and was free again.  Lucky - I really didn’t want to lose my new lure!

Mark on the back deck.

Marion and I just stood looking at each other in amazement, ‘did you see that, did you see that’ I yelled, Marion was as spell bound as I and saw everything but the last few seconds as she dived for the camera.

Day 2 – Pacific Blue Tuna & Whale

The day was blustery and the closer we got to the Lau group of the Fiji islands the lumpier the seas got. However, there is always one thing that takes your mind off the distasteful conditions…. spotting whales, and catching a fish!

Marion spotted the humpback about 500m off the stern, breaching full length out of the water and crashing back into the sea sending a plume of white water across the horizon. A solitary amazing moment!

1-1-1, Pacific Blue Tuna with Mark on the back deck. After the marlin we had our fighting position sorted, our release system identified, but we had to land this one. They are reminiscent of the ‘Red Tuna’ we use to buy in Tahiti, absolutely gorgeous flavour and texture.

Day 3 – Oneata Passage becalmed, and Semi Circumnavigation reached

So we arrive at the Oneata Passage come morning and are grateful to get between the islands to get out of the swell. The wind died so I went to put on the engine, first needing to turn over to the reserve tank…..oh ohhh! The reserve tank is already open and empty….we only have 60l of fuel left!

Marion’s account after she rose out of bed. “I couldn’t work out why Mark was being so nice to me when I woke up and said to me that we have to discuss our strategy for the rest of the trip”. It all came out, and now we know Mark is not perfect! So for most of the day we changed sails, drifted backwards, drifted forwards, and discussed strategies.  All the while remembering we must only use the remaining fuel for stopping us drifting onto a reef or running the generator to keep the batteries charged.

Between the ‘X’ waypoints was one days 27nm sail!! (We usually plan on 130nm)

But we always find good in the day, and today was an exceptional moment. Today was the day we crossed our semi circumnavigation line, celebrations were to be had. The waypoint was plotted and the atmosphere grew as we closed in. A slight breeze filled the sails and pushed Zenna along. Emotions were running high, ‘have we really sailed half way round the world?’ we looked at each other in amazement, and reflected. Words were not, and cannot, be said, to describe the moment.

Celebrations of fruit cake donated by Bev (Ros) and Café de Patron!

Day 4 – On the move again another Pacific Blue

Absolutely gorgeous sailing, and another Pacific Blue caught and released as we still had enough fish from last time, 2-2-2, Pacific Blue Tuna.

Day 5 – Genoa halyard break

Now the sailing of late was a superb 10-12 knts with full sails up and calm water enabling us to maintain speeds of 6-7 knts….not to be sneezed at especially when you’ve got no fuel! Sailing along I heard a ‘bang’ and saw the genoa slowly falling to the deck. I yelled out and rushed forward grabbing it just in time before it went into the water.

Inspection revealed the swaged wire pennant used to lengthen the modified sail had parted. Now everyone was safe, with the winds and seas calm….….but I had to go up the mast to retrieve the halyard to make repairs. I donned the gear and up Marion pulled me. A slight roll with the swell was mitigated by plentiful rigging to hold on to, though, once past the last spreaders these were non-existent leaving me only one stay and the mast.

While calm down at sea level I was now experiencing what can only be described as a little girl at the carnival who had just won a cupi doll on the end of stick and is swinging it around…..i was the cupi doll!! The lurch would come and out the side of the boat I would swing knowing only too well that I was going to come up against the mast again, fast! I grabbed the halyard as I swung by, hit the mast, and asked Marion to let me down. A moment went by, I looked, I saw Marion at the base of the mast looking at the ropes. I yelled out, ‘ what are you doing’, the reply came….’trying to work out how to let you down’. I thought quick, staying up here mid ocean getting smashed against the mast, or coming down. ‘Let me down NOW’, to hell with the safety line! I came down fast, some would say not fast enough, but at least I didn’t break any bones. I have great respect now for people going up the mast mid ocean.

Day 6 – Great Astrolabe Reef

The wind had filled in now but we are adamant we could not make the marina before dark. It was a great feeling to sail through the inner islands of the Fiji group, looking at the charts, making note of anchorages we will return to, and making course adjustments for the changing winds and tides.

Day 7 – Arrival at last

We came to the pass at nightfall, 0345 hours, after a calm sail up the coast with the night time abatement of winds and the island shadow for the swell. The charts looked correct and once we aligned the leading lights we decided we could sail through the pass. This was a first as we have never attempted a pass at night before.  All was going well but halfway through we slowed to a creep as we heard the boiling water all around us……the tide was rushing out! I can only imagine that it was our long passage that brought the calm response, and we just kept sailing, thankfully, uneventfully.

We motor sailed the remainder of the way to the marina arriving at 0800 hours with only 20l of fuel to spare to have the authorities say it was election day, a holiday, and that we would have to check in at Lautoka. I radioed back, we cannot move except to go into the marina. Time went by until the reply came, ‘wait, quarantine is coming’. All the authorities came to the marina for us! Quite nice these Fijians!

Here at last!