Panama to the Marquesas

Galapagos Crossing

Waiting for a weather window

Leaving from The Perlas islands in Panama saw the winds pick up and new crew, Florent, experience the exhilaration of Zenna performing like she was ready to take on an Americas Cup AC72 catamaran. This was not to last and we encountered the doldrums early; huge lightening storms saw us alter course many times, and with our advised route going east of Malpelo rocks we also encountered adverse currents. One particular day saw us find enough wind to sail and tack back to where we were in the morning to achieve 8 miles distance forward. This was in no way assisting our efforts to reach Galapagos in short time.

Florant's first fish

Fishing was lucrative with Skip Jack Tuna being caught prolifically, a meaty and gamey fish by all accounts, filling the stomachs of the ships crew.

GPS showing us crossing the Equator

Neptune with his trident?

 

Crossing the equator saw a homage to Neptune, obligatory mariners rituals, take place. The Captain donned the appropriate attire for the ceremony and ordered the crew to be assembled. As we crossed the equator Neptune was hailed in a boisterous but courteous manner and a shot of rum offered to the seas, …….. and one to each and every crew member. Locks of hair were then taken from each crew and offered to the wind as remembrance of those that have preceeded us (heads were not shaven in light of the female crew member)

Galapagos was sighted after 9 days and the crew were jubilant in the expectation of setting foot ashore once again. My doubts are heightened as I know the crossing to Marquesas will be testing for the mind and soul of these green landlubbers!

Feeling the cold Humbolt current

Marquesas Crossing

0800 – (date unknown)

Day ##……..I’m not sure, its all starting to blend into one, its 0800 and we have been out here for days, searching for wind and hoping to position ourselves to catch the same in our sails. We must gain some speed to reach the Marquesas for Marion’s birthday, 30^th May, though this is now coming second to our best interests. The crew are getting tired, the night watches are taking their toll, food is running short and yesterday we had to throw 4 loaves of bread overboard from mould. One of our crew, Sailor Florent, has taken to drying some out to try and preserve what we have left. There is hope in the situation we find ourselves, it is not yet dire.

The reluctant French chef

The satellite phone has been working well to provide weather grib files, and a 3 day forecast synoptic, which I am not sure is a good thing! We found on the synoptic a hurricane has developed just north of us, but I figure we are south of the equator and with the hurricane north we should be fine, I will keep a close eye on its development! Wind has picked up, I gather it is the hurricane pulling southern air into it, the isobars are moving north into our area, hence the reason for the increased wind. But we are not yet out of the ‘area to be avoided’, an area marked and described by leading colleague Jimmy Cornell where ‘violent storms and lightning frequent’. We have been in the area for the last 6 days or so to find some wind to sail, it’s a gamble, but one all agreed, and in desperation, we should take. We do not have enough fuel on board to motor through, we have finally got some speed with the new wind. Another day or so and we should be out and into stable trade wind conditions.

Not dancing - holding the sat phone aerial

The wind has been building all night, currently reaching 20 knots at times and with our stern quarter running and 3m swells the boat is pushing to 8.5 knots which is above the design speed of 8. I’m afraid the sails won’t make it to New Zealand……, we have to keep an eye on them. We have lived with the rips, tears and bagginess but the middle layer has now parted and has visibly dropped in sections. It cannot be repaired any further. We need to hang on, we need to reach Marquesas and take stock.

The crew are resting now, I hope they gather some strength through it. First Mate Marion just informed me that a wave came in the boat through the aft head, I’m not sure she was using it at the time, perhaps. She has now gone back to her bed in the aft cabin which with the short swells is being picked up and dropped every 3 seconds while at the same time being lurched from one side to the other, it can’t be comfortable but she seems to be resting. Florent is taking it in his stride, though signs of fatigue are setting in. He started out full of energy but the lack of wind caused frustration and anxiety. The increased wind we have now and the realisation that his peanut butter, sugar and bread are running out is compounding to his weariness. I must keep the spirits up for the sake of the crew. I am having informal gatherings with the crew in the pit so weather grib forecasts laid over our intended track line can be relayed. I try to provide some hope in the situation! We must press on, the situation is not yet dire, there is hope.

1030 – 15^th May 2013

The date is 15^th May 2013 as I have been courteously informed by one of the crew. Crew are up and about in good spirits. It is the time of the day that guesstimates of our days mileage are submitted and it looks to be a record on this crossing….there are whoops of joy from the crew as 156 miles has been recorded and screams of delight were heard far as Head Navigator Marion states that only 2000 nautical miles of this leg of our journey remains. There is much cause for celebration and I have authorised the use of remaining bread for sandwiches for lunch at midday.

Spirits will be kept high as the head navigator has also informed me that the clock will be adjusted today to account for our journey west, adding an extra hour. This will add marvellously to our mileage, and with the current and forecasted wind I pray that another mileage record will be reached. Splendid!

1500 - 28 May 2013

We are becalmed yet again. I have authorised the use of the engine to make forward movement of the vessel towards our destination, Hiva Oa, since the previous day. Fuel is running short and I have taken to make regular assessments of the engine speed for our mileage achieved in hopes to gain maximum advantage. With Crew Marion’s birthday on the horizon……I estimate an engine running speed of 2200rpm, and pray we encounter wind to bolster our mileage.

I ordered stop engines 1 hour ago to finalise the scraping of the underside of the vessel. Our efforts in doing so yesterday were rewarded with 1 extra knot being obtained, marvellous effort, though I myself had to lead Crew Florent to the chore as he took upon himself to work himself into a frenzy in becoming shark fodder. I believe him to be too bony and not of an appetizing nature for the beasts. I led the way yet again today only to have a Portuguese Man O War wrap his confounded tentacles around the front of my neck across my shoulders and down my back to where the body lay. Vinegar was called for and doused to no avail. The Man O War harpoons had already shot their venom into me and made removing of the tentacles treacherous, they were still being removed an hour later. Welts have begun and the pain is excruciating. The Crew seek to view the wounds so I hold my neck towards their gawking eyes and tell them to ‘ave a good look, go on, ave a reeaaal good look you landlubbers!’. They look, and the grimace on their face tells all. I fear for them should they encounter the Man O War.

0800 - 30^th May 2013



Birthday Girl

I am completing my morning watch as land was spotted by moonlight 3 hours previously. Crew Marion has arrived on deck to a cool cloudy and hazy morning. I reach across, hold my arm towards land and say, ‘my darling, Happy Birthday, I give you…….Hiva Oa’. There is much pleasure seen in her eyes as they welled with tears, she is joyous beyond comprehension and only of a manner that those that have preceeded us can understand. Landfall will be made shortly……..