Sunday, July 7, 2013

The Panama Way - A Central American story


Panama is a good place for getting spares for the boat.  Quite a few are available locally and others can be shipped in.  The trick is knowing which delivery company to use.  Fedex and DHL are reliable and deliver to your door, the rest – good luck.  The company supplying our new windlass motor (the motor that brings the anchor chain on board) had already shipped via TNT before we had a chance to warn them.

Stories of other cruisers attempts to get their goods released from some of these shippers had kept us entertained in the bar at Shelter Bay Marina on many an evening.  How were we going to avoid falling into the same trap?  Our calls to TNT were answered and then put through to a recorded message never to be understood.  Eventually we enlisted the support of the guys in the marina office who said the shipment was in Panama (we knew that) and would be delivered in the next few days.  All very good.  I even got very excited one night when I saw a TNT van outside the office – no it was a package for someone else.  But the office was encouraged; it was the first time a TNT van had ever made it as far as the marina.

However, we had a slot booked to cross the Panama Canal for the 4th of Jan and Christmas was approaching.  Mark was worried if we didn’t take the initiative we would not get the package in time for him to fit the motor and load the new chain which was laying on the dock.  So the Friday before Christmas we decided we had to act.  We went to the local TNT office in Colon who we had been told had the paperwork, but no, Panama City had it.  Early the following day we got the bus through to Panama City.  Our package was at the airport but we first had to go to a city office to get the paperwork. 

We managed to find a taxi to take us to both these places and return us to the bus terminal for $30 which was on the expensive side but ok.  On the back seat next to me was a large box which he had to deliver on the way to airport.  First we needed the paperwork.  Inside the office there was an English speaking lady who turned out to be a freight forwarder trying to get something for one of her clients.   She established that our package was there and the paperwork was being produced but we had to be at the airport by 1300 when the airport closed.  She also said that $30 was a good price for the taxi which unfortunately the taxi driver overheard (they claim not to speak English ...) and he then demanded an extra $10. 

It’s 1100 now so although we have a deadline nothing too drastic given the size of Panama City.  The box on the back seat contained a turkey which had to be delivered to a residential area close to a major shopping centre.  It was the Saturday before Christmas and had the traffic to go with it.  Even with all his back doubles, the taxi driver couldn’t fight is way out of this suburb until around 1200.  The cargo airport is further away than we thought and the TNT office was tucked away in an obscure compound down a dirt track.   We were just glad to see it and the security guard at the entrance – even if they wouldn’t let the taxi in.  Fortunately Mark had taken his passport which the guard needed to let him in on foot.  I didn’t have mine on me so waited at the gate.  Our taxi driver and the security guard then started to berate me for not having my passport.  I shrugged it off, showed them my driving licence, and thought no more of it.  They kept clamping their wrists to suggest in future if I didn’t have my passport I would be arrested.  Fine.

Time is ticking away and Mark returns with a document he needs stamped by customs which is in another area.  We go to leave, but the guard and now the army guy with a Kalashnikov (found at every check point) say no – I’m under arrest.  None of them can believe it when Mark says to the taxi driver, ‘OK leave her, we’ll go alone to customs’.    Off they go and I get on my mobile to the marina hoping they can talk to these guys and find out what is going on.  I am a bit concerned as they are quite agitated.  The marina are great and come back on to me saying everything is ok and the guards will release me but I might want to give them a small Christmas gift as a token of my appreciation.  No way, being the true Brit that I am and having had a father who refused to get involved with any corruption or extortion despite living in Nigeria for 20 years.

Waiting for Mark to return is an age as I exchange pleasantries with my ex gaolers and nervously eye the time approaching 1300.  Mark gets back just in time and runs to the office (not something you see very often) returning triumphantly with the heavy boxed motor.  Not sure what you would do if you couldn’t carry your package.  Mark was delighted and couldn’t extol the helpfulness of the driver enough.  As we walked back to the car, the taxi driver said had I paid the guards - how did he know?  I said no and got in.  He was apoplectic saying he would take me straight to Immigration.  Ok I said which floored him.  He wasn’t going to move until we had paid something to the guards.  I handed over $5 which he looked at pitifully, then $10 which was pretty much all we had as we had asked him to stop at a bank on the way which hadn’t happened.  He took the $10 then added $4 of his own before going back to the guards and we were off home.

But not before going through the main checkpoint for the cargo airport.  Here it seems you need a certain document before you can leave.   We think this document should have been given to us at Customs which the taxi driver had helped Mark to negotiate due to his limited Spanish.  In retrospect it’s likely he either didn’t get the document or kept it for himself.  It’s now passed 1300 and the Customs office is shut until the following Wednesday after Christmas.  The taxi driver suggests Mark pay the lady at the gate something to let us go through.  But she is a god fearing salt of the earth type and won’t have anything to do with it. 

I am still in the taxi and notice our driver talking to someone outside the office.  Mark is then offered a deal.  This van driver will take our package out for the small consideration of $100 which quickly reduces to $50 when Mark laughs.  Again we are having nothing to do with this.  We are not sure what is really going on until a black guy is called over to interpret.  Whenever in need of a translator in Panama, everyone looks around for the nearest black person as they are all bi-lingual.  He explains the customs issue and says that the van driver is willing to not only get the package out but also drive us back to Colon which is where he is going to.  We are in limbo.  We can’t get the package out until Wednesday and we have nowhere to leave it until then as the TNT office is closed.  Reluctantly we agree.

Before heading for Colon we have to stop to get money to pay the taxi driver who by now I have taken a real dislike to.  He has been very dismissive of me from the start, like many of the Panamanian me who find it odd that I do all the Spanish talking whilst Mark stands by.  I see him having a good laugh with our van driver as I’m waiting in the Christmas line to get money out of the ATM.  As I hand over the money to him I scream at him ‘Malo Hombre! Malo Hombre!’   I just wish I had had a few more choice words to get the shoppers attention.  He strides off anyway.

Once in the van, Mark and I start to compare stories for the first time and realise that the taxi driver has been the main scammer.  The van driver is a nice chap with his rosary dangling from his mirror.  I play on his conscience saying how bad the taxi driver was and that ‘God sees everything’.  He keeps saying it is the Panamanian way and we should just relax.  So we do but we hatch a plan for our arrival in Colon.

Mark gets out of the van with him and he breaks the customs seal and passes out our package.  At this point I reach over and go for the van keys.  Of course it’s not easy nowadays to get keys out and it took me a while.  The driver looks in the door but assumes I am being safety conscience and am stopping the engine.  My heart pounding, I finally get the keys out.  Then leap out of the van.  The van driver is keen to get his money and get on with his Christmas shopping.  Instead I pull out the keys and say I want $100 for them.  Mark says ‘She learns quickly – the Panama way’. We settle on paying him $30.  He is a nice chap.  He also told us he had to give the taxi driver $20 for setting up the scam.  If nothing else, maybe he will think twice before getting involved again – but I suspect not.  We also realise what happened with the guards – the taxi driver kept our $10 and gave the guards $2 each.

So with our introduction to Panamanian extortion completed we got into the swing of it.  Money simply exchanged hands in future if we found ourselves needing something that wasn’t quite right.  We also started doing some reverse extortion where we would simply pay people when they didn’t try to clobber us or provided some useful service.  Tipping I think it’s called.

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