Galapagos Picture Gallery

Your camera gets a serious work out in the Galapagos.  We ran out of battery 2 days into our little holiday on board the Eden but still managed to get all these.  San Cristobal is one of the old islands with cobbled streets and charming street signs.  When ever Mark got lost he used to look for the road named Una Via and found it always took him back to the dock.  He only discovered  as we were leaving that it actually the 'one way' sign in Spanish.  San Cristobal is also the home to the largest population of Sea Lions - sea dogs really they are so friendly and human

Duelling computers

 

Sea lions on the beach at night - noisy and smelly

Not Welcome everywhere - especially on the back of Zenna

The Eden

No shopping, cooking or washing up for 4 days

Jessica from the Eden clearly related to the Blue footed booby

Back to normal - shopping

Taxi to shore -dare not take the dingy with all the sea lions around

Home sweet home

Turtle Rescue

Tasty snack for frigate birds

But some made it to the water with a little help



But we don't know if they made it past the sharks...

Giant tortoise fight.  Highest head wins - long necks and friends to stand on very useful
 

Panama to the Marquesas

Galapagos Crossing

Waiting for a weather window

Leaving from The Perlas islands in Panama saw the winds pick up and new crew, Florent, experience the exhilaration of Zenna performing like she was ready to take on an Americas Cup AC72 catamaran. This was not to last and we encountered the doldrums early; huge lightening storms saw us alter course many times, and with our advised route going east of Malpelo rocks we also encountered adverse currents. One particular day saw us find enough wind to sail and tack back to where we were in the morning to achieve 8 miles distance forward. This was in no way assisting our efforts to reach Galapagos in short time.

Florant's first fish

Fishing was lucrative with Skip Jack Tuna being caught prolifically, a meaty and gamey fish by all accounts, filling the stomachs of the ships crew.

GPS showing us crossing the Equator

Neptune with his trident?

 

Crossing the equator saw a homage to Neptune, obligatory mariners rituals, take place. The Captain donned the appropriate attire for the ceremony and ordered the crew to be assembled. As we crossed the equator Neptune was hailed in a boisterous but courteous manner and a shot of rum offered to the seas, …….. and one to each and every crew member. Locks of hair were then taken from each crew and offered to the wind as remembrance of those that have preceeded us (heads were not shaven in light of the female crew member)

Galapagos was sighted after 9 days and the crew were jubilant in the expectation of setting foot ashore once again. My doubts are heightened as I know the crossing to Marquesas will be testing for the mind and soul of these green landlubbers!

Feeling the cold Humbolt current

Marquesas Crossing

0800 – (date unknown)

Day ##……..I’m not sure, its all starting to blend into one, its 0800 and we have been out here for days, searching for wind and hoping to position ourselves to catch the same in our sails. We must gain some speed to reach the Marquesas for Marion’s birthday, 30^th May, though this is now coming second to our best interests. The crew are getting tired, the night watches are taking their toll, food is running short and yesterday we had to throw 4 loaves of bread overboard from mould. One of our crew, Sailor Florent, has taken to drying some out to try and preserve what we have left. There is hope in the situation we find ourselves, it is not yet dire.

The reluctant French chef

The satellite phone has been working well to provide weather grib files, and a 3 day forecast synoptic, which I am not sure is a good thing! We found on the synoptic a hurricane has developed just north of us, but I figure we are south of the equator and with the hurricane north we should be fine, I will keep a close eye on its development! Wind has picked up, I gather it is the hurricane pulling southern air into it, the isobars are moving north into our area, hence the reason for the increased wind. But we are not yet out of the ‘area to be avoided’, an area marked and described by leading colleague Jimmy Cornell where ‘violent storms and lightning frequent’. We have been in the area for the last 6 days or so to find some wind to sail, it’s a gamble, but one all agreed, and in desperation, we should take. We do not have enough fuel on board to motor through, we have finally got some speed with the new wind. Another day or so and we should be out and into stable trade wind conditions.

Not dancing - holding the sat phone aerial

The wind has been building all night, currently reaching 20 knots at times and with our stern quarter running and 3m swells the boat is pushing to 8.5 knots which is above the design speed of 8. I’m afraid the sails won’t make it to New Zealand……, we have to keep an eye on them. We have lived with the rips, tears and bagginess but the middle layer has now parted and has visibly dropped in sections. It cannot be repaired any further. We need to hang on, we need to reach Marquesas and take stock.

The crew are resting now, I hope they gather some strength through it. First Mate Marion just informed me that a wave came in the boat through the aft head, I’m not sure she was using it at the time, perhaps. She has now gone back to her bed in the aft cabin which with the short swells is being picked up and dropped every 3 seconds while at the same time being lurched from one side to the other, it can’t be comfortable but she seems to be resting. Florent is taking it in his stride, though signs of fatigue are setting in. He started out full of energy but the lack of wind caused frustration and anxiety. The increased wind we have now and the realisation that his peanut butter, sugar and bread are running out is compounding to his weariness. I must keep the spirits up for the sake of the crew. I am having informal gatherings with the crew in the pit so weather grib forecasts laid over our intended track line can be relayed. I try to provide some hope in the situation! We must press on, the situation is not yet dire, there is hope.

1030 – 15^th May 2013

The date is 15^th May 2013 as I have been courteously informed by one of the crew. Crew are up and about in good spirits. It is the time of the day that guesstimates of our days mileage are submitted and it looks to be a record on this crossing….there are whoops of joy from the crew as 156 miles has been recorded and screams of delight were heard far as Head Navigator Marion states that only 2000 nautical miles of this leg of our journey remains. There is much cause for celebration and I have authorised the use of remaining bread for sandwiches for lunch at midday.

Spirits will be kept high as the head navigator has also informed me that the clock will be adjusted today to account for our journey west, adding an extra hour. This will add marvellously to our mileage, and with the current and forecasted wind I pray that another mileage record will be reached. Splendid!

1500 - 28 May 2013

We are becalmed yet again. I have authorised the use of the engine to make forward movement of the vessel towards our destination, Hiva Oa, since the previous day. Fuel is running short and I have taken to make regular assessments of the engine speed for our mileage achieved in hopes to gain maximum advantage. With Crew Marion’s birthday on the horizon……I estimate an engine running speed of 2200rpm, and pray we encounter wind to bolster our mileage.

I ordered stop engines 1 hour ago to finalise the scraping of the underside of the vessel. Our efforts in doing so yesterday were rewarded with 1 extra knot being obtained, marvellous effort, though I myself had to lead Crew Florent to the chore as he took upon himself to work himself into a frenzy in becoming shark fodder. I believe him to be too bony and not of an appetizing nature for the beasts. I led the way yet again today only to have a Portuguese Man O War wrap his confounded tentacles around the front of my neck across my shoulders and down my back to where the body lay. Vinegar was called for and doused to no avail. The Man O War harpoons had already shot their venom into me and made removing of the tentacles treacherous, they were still being removed an hour later. Welts have begun and the pain is excruciating. The Crew seek to view the wounds so I hold my neck towards their gawking eyes and tell them to ‘ave a good look, go on, ave a reeaaal good look you landlubbers!’. They look, and the grimace on their face tells all. I fear for them should they encounter the Man O War.

0800 - 30^th May 2013



Birthday Girl

I am completing my morning watch as land was spotted by moonlight 3 hours previously. Crew Marion has arrived on deck to a cool cloudy and hazy morning. I reach across, hold my arm towards land and say, ‘my darling, Happy Birthday, I give you…….Hiva Oa’. There is much pleasure seen in her eyes as they welled with tears, she is joyous beyond comprehension and only of a manner that those that have preceeded us can understand. Landfall will be made shortly……..

Panama finally let us go

We are two weeks into our 3 week passage from Galapagos to the Marquesas.  It will be the longest we ever do.  Totally sick of the rolly motion.  Like being on a bad fairground ride for the past two weeks...  Comforting myself eating crap food – biscuits, chocolates and cake which are the only things I really feel like right now as my stomach lurches from side to side. Despite all the calories, the weight drops off you on these trips as you are in perpetual motion. 

The big question at the moment is will we get to the Marquesas in time for my birthday.  We were late leaving Panama which only leaves us 22 days to get there and the trip normally takes 21...  Some days we make great mileage and others – I don’t want to think about.  It will be the first dry birthday I can remember since my childhood.

Panama was a real mix of modern western city, chaotic squalid districts and Latin charm.  We spent almost 6 months there.  3 months on the Caribbean side which was very ‘Jamaican’, run down and pretty dangerous in places.  We had to get a 1 ½ hour bus ride to get to a decent supermarket and there was really nowhere to go out.  Plus is poured with rain for 6 weeks which meant we were boat bound or very damp whenever we had to go anywhere – which unfortunately was frequently.

Local bus service

One Sunday morning Mark woke up with no feeling in his right arm.  He waited for it to wake up but it never did.  By this time we thought he might have had a stroke and went to the local clinic.  They said ‘not to worry’ but his blood pressure was high and he should take some pills – duly provided for only 40 cents.  As the day wore on we felt a second opinion might be needed and found there was a ‘hospital’ about an hour and half away by taxi.  They said much the same as the clinic but recommended he see a nerve specialist in Panama City the following day – a 7-8 hour round trip on two buses and a taxi each way. 

40cent medical dispensary

The nerve specialist confirmed it was a trapped nerve and the feeling gradually returned to his arm 2 weeks later.  However, she was alarmed at his blood pressure and booked him in with a heart specialist the following day – joy another trip to Panama City.  We were getting up a dawn and not getting back to the boat until nearly midnight.  And all this in drenching tropical downpours.  The worst was one night where the dinghy engine wouldn’t start because rain had got into the fuel and I had to row about a mile back to the boat.  While Mark tried to hold up an umbrella with his one good arm.  The upside is that Mark is now taking his blood pressure seriously and it’s all under control with some pills and salt and coffee now a major treat for him – haven’t been able to persuade him on the alcohol front tho’- no surprise there.

Love the orange streaks

 

I also got my hair coloured on the Caribbean side.  The usual highlights but I asked in my best Spanish if she could cover the grey with some brown as well.  Clearly my Spanish is not that good.  I ended up looking like an Eastern European Moll with black hair and a couple of orange streaks at the front.  Everyone was calling me Olga and I was thinking of getting a flight to Miami to try to get it sorted out.  Ricardo in Panama City came to the rescue and I’m slowly returning to normal (whatever that was)

Kirsty with her stern line

Ian and the Pacific ocean at the last lock

Lindsay fending off the tourist boat



Sydney Harbour Bridge?  That was quick

 

 

Ian and Kirsty came out to help us with the canal transit which all went quite smoothly.  We had already done it twice with two other boats so knew what to expect and it didn’t seem so overwhelming going through with Zenna.  They spent a further week with us in Las Perlas a group of islands on the Pacific side.  Really beautiful with clear waters, dolphins, whales and incredible dancing rays that would leap out of the water like an orchestrated water fountain – totally insane to watch.

Varnishing or the next episode of Dexter?

Pristine Las Perlas

The next three months were spent between these islands and an anchorage called La Playita near Panama City getting lots of jobs done – including installing a new washing machine which slipped in through the hatch and into the cupboard nicely but then refused to work.  Turned out that the control panel had been knocked in during the shipping from the UK so we had to dismantle the cupboard and the machine to p

Panama City Skyline

ush the panel back into place...  Nothing is ever simple.

Got to know Panama City quite well and finally decided that it looks like a sophisticated city but once you scratch the surface, it is not that different from the Caribbean side. The city skyscape can match some of the best but everything is just a veneer – even Mark’s heart specialist when we went back for a second consultation was all bedside manner but couldn’t find any of his previous results.  We ended up using his computer to get onto Mark’s email to find the information...

4 trolley shop

And some more

Now where do I put it all

We also spent a lot of time trying to find crew for our passage to Polynesia.  The process started in August and at different points we had 3 people lined up ready to come who changed their minds.  Finally a young Canadian chap called Matt joined us who was very easy going and helped get loads of jobs done before departure. 

1st crew Matt

We were about to check out of the country and discovered his passport didn’t have the necessary 6 months for entry to Polynesia – 1^st delay,  new passport ordered for 1 week later, then we had a problem with our old friend the generator 2^nd delay, new part ordered from the UK duration unknown, then Mark got a staph infection with a temperature of 103 and a nasty swelling on his leg  3^rd delay– a week in an aircon room and antibiotics sorted that one out, then Matt decided he had to go back to Canada leaving us crewless once again 4^th delay- fortunately we found Florent a crazy French boy looking for a ride on the dock, then the batteries started playing up and we decided we needed new ones.  Finally we managed to leave and we were about an hour away from the dock when I remembered I’d left my bike tied up to the railings.  Back we went much to the amusement of the rest of the harbour.

Florent - Crazy Frenchman

Florent, our 23 year old crew, has decided he will buy his own boat which draws lots of comparisons with Zenna and the way we do things.  His number one changes will be allowing smoking and beer drinking.  He has had to give up both during this trip.  Apart from some initial tetchiness the main by product of his withdrawal has been a rapacious appetite.  He’s like a cuckoo.  We tried to fill him up but decided it was impossible to fill the void, so now it’s smaller regular meals with lots of sugar and salt which seems to be all he can taste.

Melon Stall
 

All has to be washed in bleach before we go



And Mangoes



 

Left Panama about 2 months later than planned and had 2 weeks in the Galapagos.  Surprised by how much we enjoyed them.  Even treated ourselves to a little holiday – a 4 day boat trip on the Eden!  It was great – someone else to worry about the boat, cooking, getting from a-b – we just turned up for walks ashore and swimming and snorkelling.  That’s more like it.

Final fueling up

 

Relaxing on board the Eden

 
So now we are Polynesia bound and not sure what‘s in store for us there.  Mark’s mum is joining us for a couple of weeks for Mark’s 50^th at the beginning of July but otherwise no real plans.  As we are a bit late getting into the Pacific we may have to trim the number of islands we do this year and come back next year after the winter in New Zealand.

The Panama Way - A Central American story

Panama is a good place for getting spares for the boat.  Quite a few are available locally and others can be shipped in.  The trick is knowing which delivery company to use.  Fedex and DHL are reliable and deliver to your door, the rest – good luck.  The company supplying our new windlass motor (the motor that brings the anchor chain on board) had already shipped via TNT before we had a chance to warn them.

Stories of other cruisers attempts to get their goods released from some of these shippers had kept us entertained in the bar at Shelter Bay Marina on many an evening.  How were we going to avoid falling into the same trap?  Our calls to TNT were answered and then put through to a recorded message never to be understood.  Eventually we enlisted the support of the guys in the marina office who said the shipment was in Panama (we knew that) and would be delivered in the next few days.  All very good.  I even got very excited one night when I saw a TNT van outside the office – no it was a package for someone else.  But the office was encouraged; it was the first time a TNT van had ever made it as far as the marina.

However, we had a slot booked to cross the Panama Canal for the 4^th of Jan and Christmas was approaching.  Mark was worried if we didn’t take the initiative we would not get the package in time for him to fit the motor and load the new chain which was laying on the dock.  So the Friday before Christmas we decided we had to act.  We went to the local TNT office in Colon who we had been told had the paperwork, but no, Panama City had it.  Early the following day we got the bus through to Panama City.  Our package was at the airport but we first had to go to a city office to get the paperwork. 

We managed to find a taxi to take us to both these places and return us to the bus terminal for $30 which was on the expensive side but ok.  On the back seat next to me was a large box which he had to deliver on the way to airport.  First we needed the paperwork.  Inside the office there was an English speaking lady who turned out to be a freight forwarder trying to get something for one of her clients.   She established that our package was there and the paperwork was being produced but we had to be at the airport by 1300 when the airport closed.  She also said that $30 was a good price for the taxi which unfortunately the taxi driver overheard (they claim not to speak English ...) and he then demanded an extra $10. 

It’s 1100 now so although we have a deadline nothing too drastic given the size of Panama City.  The box on the back seat contained a turkey which had to be delivered to a residential area close to a major shopping centre.  It was the Saturday before Christmas and had the traffic to go with it.  Even with all his back doubles, the taxi driver couldn’t fight is way out of this suburb until around 1200.  The cargo airport is further away than we thought and the TNT office was tucked away in an obscure compound down a dirt track.   We were just glad to see it and the security guard at the entrance – even if they wouldn’t let the taxi in.  Fortunately Mark had taken his passport which the guard needed to let him in on foot.  I didn’t have mine on me so waited at the gate.  Our taxi driver and the security guard then started to berate me for not having my passport.  I shrugged it off, showed them my driving licence, and thought no more of it.  They kept clamping their wrists to suggest in future if I didn’t have my passport I would be arrested.  Fine.

Time is ticking away and Mark returns with a document he needs stamped by customs which is in another area.  We go to leave, but the guard and now the army guy with a Kalashnikov (found at every check point) say no – I’m under arrest.  None of them can believe it when Mark says to the taxi driver, ‘OK leave her, we’ll go alone to customs’.    Off they go and I get on my mobile to the marina hoping they can talk to these guys and find out what is going on.  I am a bit concerned as they are quite agitated.  The marina are great and come back on to me saying everything is ok and the guards will release me but I might want to give them a small Christmas gift as a token of my appreciation.  No way, being the true Brit that I am and having had a father who refused to get involved with any corruption or extortion despite living in Nigeria for 20 years.

Waiting for Mark to return is an age as I exchange pleasantries with my ex gaolers and nervously eye the time approaching 1300.  Mark gets back just in time and runs to the office (not something you see very often) returning triumphantly with the heavy boxed motor.  Not sure what you would do if you couldn’t carry your package.  Mark was delighted and couldn’t extol the helpfulness of the driver enough.  As we walked back to the car, the taxi driver said had I paid the guards - how did he know?  I said no and got in.  He was apoplectic saying he would take me straight to Immigration.  Ok I said which floored him.  He wasn’t going to move until we had paid something to the guards.  I handed over $5 which he looked at pitifully, then $10 which was pretty much all we had as we had asked him to stop at a bank on the way which hadn’t happened.  He took the $10 then added $4 of his own before going back to the guards and we were off home.

But not before going through the main checkpoint for the cargo airport.  Here it seems you need a certain document before you can leave.   We think this document should have been given to us at Customs which the taxi driver had helped Mark to negotiate due to his limited Spanish.  In retrospect it’s likely he either didn’t get the document or kept it for himself.  It’s now passed 1300 and the Customs office is shut until the following Wednesday after Christmas.  The taxi driver suggests Mark pay the lady at the gate something to let us go through.  But she is a god fearing salt of the earth type and won’t have anything to do with it. 

I am still in the taxi and notice our driver talking to someone outside the office.  Mark is then offered a deal.  This van driver will take our package out for the small consideration of $100 which quickly reduces to $50 when Mark laughs.  Again we are having nothing to do with this.  We are not sure what is really going on until a black guy is called over to interpret.  Whenever in need of a translator in Panama, everyone looks around for the nearest black person as they are all bi-lingual.  He explains the customs issue and says that the van driver is willing to not only get the package out but also drive us back to Colon which is where he is going to.  We are in limbo.  We can’t get the package out until Wednesday and we have nowhere to leave it until then as the TNT office is closed.  Reluctantly we agree.

Before heading for Colon we have to stop to get money to pay the taxi driver who by now I have taken a real dislike to.  He has been very dismissive of me from the start, like many of the Panamanian me who find it odd that I do all the Spanish talking whilst Mark stands by.  I see him having a good laugh with our van driver as I’m waiting in the Christmas line to get money out of the ATM.  As I hand over the money to him I scream at him ‘Malo Hombre! Malo Hombre!’   I just wish I had had a few more choice words to get the shoppers attention.  He strides off anyway.

Once in the van, Mark and I start to compare stories for the first time and realise that the taxi driver has been the main scammer.  The van driver is a nice chap with his rosary dangling from his mirror.  I play on his conscience saying how bad the taxi driver was and that ‘God sees everything’.  He keeps saying it is the Panamanian way and we should just relax.  So we do but we hatch a plan for our arrival in Colon.

Mark gets out of the van with him and he breaks the customs seal and passes out our package.  At this point I reach over and go for the van keys.  Of course it’s not easy nowadays to get keys out and it took me a while.  The driver looks in the door but assumes I am being safety conscience and am stopping the engine.  My heart pounding, I finally get the keys out.  Then leap out of the van.  The van driver is keen to get his money and get on with his Christmas shopping.  Instead I pull out the keys and say I want $100 for them.  Mark says ‘She learns quickly – the Panama way’. We settle on paying him $30.  He is a nice chap.  He also told us he had to give the taxi driver $20 for setting up the scam.  If nothing else, maybe he will think twice before getting involved again – but I suspect not.  We also realise what happened with the guards – the taxi driver kept our $10 and gave the guards $2 each.

So with our introduction to Panamanian extortion completed we got into the swing of it.  Money simply exchanged hands in future if we found ourselves needing something that wasn’t quite right.  We also started doing some reverse extortion where we would simply pay people when they didn’t try to clobber us or provided some useful service.  Tipping I think it’s called.